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Friday, 28 February 2014

PFW #3: Carven, Balmain, Nina Ricci | Autumn/Winter 2014-15: Ready-To-Wear

- CARVEN -
Beginning and ending with outwear à la Keira Knightley in Atonement, Carven used large collars, long hemlines and fabric belts to capture a new silhouette of the winter woman. Rather than the thigh-skimming oversized coats we have seen in most of the season's collections, Carven have chosen to channel and modernize 1930s fashion, and they have done it well. Though the middle section of the collection presents a more contemporary vibe - outlandish patterns and baggy thigh-high boots - the overall feel of the collection is one of regality and Britishness, and is very true to Carven's traditional style.


- BALMAIN -
I hope none of you have thrown out your peplums too hastily, because according to Olivier Rousteing, they are very much back for A/W. In traditional Balmain form, Rousteing presented us with hard, dominatrix-esque fabrics and outwardly sexualised silhouettes. There is no chance to hide your body in a baggy jumper or dress here, each look is attentive to the female shape, with particular emphasis on the waist. Uninhibited animal prints, chains and of course lots of leather, the Balmain show did a wonderful job of retaining the undeniably identifiable look of the brand, whilst renewing these conventions with colour and print. And that model line up too? Hats off to Olivier Rousteing.


- NINA RICCI -
A much more pretty and wearable show compared to some of the others shown so far in Paris, Nina Ricci has excelled in creating a variety of looks, yet all with the same elegant feeling. Largely focusing on all shades purple, from Pantone's radiant orchid to deeper burgandies and soft, dusty mauves, the collection feels timeless and refined, without a moment of excess to be seen. Even the more detailed looks at the end of the collection carry an air of simplicity and class, never once becoming superfluous in their adornment. Minimalist without being dull, the collection is certainly one to imitate, particularly on the most graceful of occasions.


(All photographs have been taken from and belong www.vogue.co.uk)

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PFW #2: Alexis Mabille, Rochas, H&M | Autumn/Winter 2014-15: Ready-To-Wear

- ALEXIS MABILLE -
You all know by now that I'm a sucker for beading, or any form of embellishment in fact, so it should come as no surprise that I'm head over heels with certain looks from this collection. The first look really reminds me of the Adam Selman outfit that Rihanna wore to perform at the Victoria's Secret Fashion Show in 2012, but this time with a hint of Elie Saab-esque glamour. It seems that the focus is back on the waist in this collection, from knotted tops to oversized bows. Be sure to hold onto last winter's tartan purchases and despite most of this season's collections showing knee-highs, Alexis Mabille is telling us not to put our Chelsea boots in the attic too soon.


- ROCHAS -
Beautiful muted pastels as well as luxurious beading and layered looks, Alessandro Dell'Acqua's debut collection is definitely one for the classic woman. Marigold-esque gloves (dredging up my last essay's concern about the female resignation to domesticity; don't get me started) aside, I am a big fan of this collection and its overall simplicity. I particularly like the jewel-encrusted camel blouse, one to find a high street version of for sure.


- H&M -
I warned you; don't get too attached to your ankle boots ladies, because H&M was all about knee highs. A high energy show with girls sauntering down the catwalk at high speed to Sissy Cassell (thank you live stream), the collection plays on all of the things that H&M embodies; fun, comfort and vibrancy. I love the olive looks that began the show - perhaps a colour to watch for Pantone's 2015 shade of the year as it's been featured also in Emilio Pucci and Alberta Ferretti this season - whilst the more monochrome shades felt just as rich due to the uses of fabric and silhouette. Finally it is worth noting the excessive use of fur (lets hope its faux) this season, as well as H&M's eye catching coloured boots.


(All photographs have been taken from and belong www.vogue.co.uk)

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