Glamorous, extravagant and serene, Elie Saab's Spring/Summer 2015 couture collection was one more on a long list of heavenly creations to make the most tomboyish of women swoon. A range of influences seemed to inspire the clothes, from exaggerated Hollywood glamour, to nature-inspired gowns and set, as well as the dramatic black dresses that reminded me of Travis Banton's costuming in Max Ophüls' Letter from an Unknown Woman, Saab's gowns offered something for everyone, layered in as much 20th Century cultural reference as they were sequin and lace.
The show began with a stunning pale gold gown with wide sleeves and beautiful, almost translucent mesh. This first dress immediately took me back to the gold low-cut gown worn by Izabel Goulart at Marchesa's most recent Ready-To-Wear show, though there is a difference between Marchesa's bohemian vibe and Saab's look towards Hollywood lingerie and opulence. The collection proceeded as all Elie Saab shows faultlessly do; through dresses of lace, beading, sheer panels and embellishment galore, but with the added drama of endless feathers, particularly on the muted grey-blue gown on the second row. These feathered looks created an even stronger sense of early Classical Hollywood, and reminded me instantly of Greta Garbo's costuming in Grand Hotel. One of my favourite gowns of the collection was the black V-necked dress with the full skirt on the penultimate row, worn by one of my favourite models of the moment Taylor Hill; the side-swept hair and decadent feathered shrug screamed glamour, whilst the attention to detail on the skirt's beading was as immaculate and hypnotising as ever.
The final looks, bursting with butterflies, entered a more idyllic and tranquil territory, which felt like quite a sudden move away from the operatic gowns shown immediately before. But if anything, this just shows Elie Saab's incredible versatility and ability to create a synergy between the most unlikely of looks. His staple formula of boat necks, beading and a cinched waist is more effective than ever in this couture collection, and will see me through my dress-based daydreams for many more seasons to come.
(All images have been taken from and belong to www.Vogue.co.uk)
To read more of my show reports on Elie Saab, just click here! But first I want to know, what was your favourite look of his latest couture collection?