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Wednesday, 16 July 2014

Paris Haute Couture Week #2: Chanel, Giorgio Armani Prive, Elie Saab | Autumn/Winter 2014-15

- CHANEL -
The expected but never underwhelming army of boucle-clad supermodels stalked down the runway for Chanel couture, ditching the trainers of last season for more favourable (though potentially less practical, this is A/W) bow-topped sandals. Unlike something we have seen in Chanel in recent years, there are a few more sparkling looks in this collection that I think borrow slightly from Dolce & Gabbana, primarily the silver and gold embellished looks in the penultimate row of pictures. As confirmation of this year's Spring/Summer trends, Karl Lagerfeld has commanded us not to throw out our full skirts yet; we are not reverting back to body-con bottoms anytime soon. The references to 18th Century royal dress make another appearance in Couture Week, this time through the embroidered dress coats in the final looks in the collection. Finally, in all of the fusion of modernity and tradition, Chanel have paired conventional fabrics and silhouettes with less than conventional androgynous hair, throwing off any notions of expectation with a creative twist; the signature spark of the ever-unpredictable Karl Lagerfeld.


- GIORGIO ARMANI PRIVE -
The chicest of things come in red, white or black. Giorgio Armani Prive used all three. With silhouettes that I tend to think of as more French than Italian, the collection saw beautiful capes, cropped sleeve princess coats and short yet absolutely demure hemlines. Wide set turtle necks graced both the Prive and the Chanel couture collections this week, it seems that the plunging necklines of this summer may finally be set to leave us for more weather suitable looks; I sigh in relief on behalf of the whole United Kingdom. Simplistic and sophisticated ankle strap heels, the strict colour scheme and sleek up-dos make for a simple formula for Armani chic this season, and one that I can't wait to emulate in the cooler months ahead.


- ELIE SAAB -
If you've been reading for a while, you'll be able to guess where Elie Saab sits on my couture admiration scale. I'll give you a clue: the top. Elie Saab has never put a foot wrong in any of his collections, yet in my opinion it is in couture that he truly excels. The Lebanese designer knows his way around excessive embellishment and a fairytale silhouette more than any other designer in the industry, and every look in the collection denotes princess perfection. Both the watercolour detailing and the ombre colours of the gowns were seen in Saab's Spring/Summer couture collection, adding fur this time for a little more wintry drama. Despite sticking to a set criteria in his gowns (beading, shoulder gracing necklines, a focus on the small feminine waist), each look has me seeing Elie Saab's work anew; no two gowns are the same and yet each one throughout years of collections evokes the same sense of other-worldly royalty. Elie, I'll love you forever.


(All images have been taken from and belong to www.Vogue.co.uk)

That is it for Paris Haute Couture Week this season! I hope you've enjoyed my round up of my favourite shows and if you came to this post first do head over to Part 1 to read my thoughts on Versace, Dior and Giambattista Valli. Also I'm sorry this post went up a few days later than planned, I had my graduation ceremony this week which I'm thinking of writing a post on; let me know if that's something you'd like to see in the comments below and in the meantime you can see a few select snaps on my Instagram @laurenjadepike.

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Tuesday, 8 July 2014

Paris Haute Couture Week #1: Versace, Christian Dior, Giambattista Valli | Autumn/Winter 2014-15

Hello everyone and happy Haute Couture Week!

For those of you who have only started reading in recent months and therefore missed the Fashion Week craziness of February, I just wanted to write a quick introduction to my show report posts. When each fashion week comes around, I go through every show to decide which collections I love enough to write about on my blog. I then include pictures of my favourite looks of each collection and tell you my thoughts; if you want to see images of every look in each collection you can find them all on the British Vogue website - the images shown here are just my personal favourites! With that in mind I hope you all enjoy my rundown of the first few days of couture.

- VERSACE -
From sleek midnight blue ensembles to full Zac Posen style skirts towards the end of the collection, Versace's couture show was far more wearable than previous ones. Perhaps to be read as an ode to Jennifer Lopez (who sat front row, natch), the models wore immaculate slicked back ponytails and endless leg bearing dresses. Though Donatella is more commonly known for her overt sexual aesthetic throughout her collections, this season's couture was a little less revealing; plunging necklines were replaced with embellished decolletage covering blouses, whilst thigh high splits were mixed in amongst more conservative trouser dresses. Despite the minor changes, Versace's couture was everything that the brand have come to be known and adored for; sensual, dark and absolutely endorsing of the empowered sexual woman.


- CHRISTIAN DIOR -
Raf Simons has undoubtedly taken inspiration from centuries gone by this season. Having gone full on Marie Antoinette in their skirts, the embroidered fabric on the second look resembled that worn by European royalty. The collection modernised the past with metallic waist belts, oversized masculine coats and - in case you hadn't spotted them - bright orange shoes. However despite the overt references to decadent 18th Century luxury, the collection took a rather unexpected turn into more wearable territory by the finale. The prettiest white two-pieces and embroidered skirts that one might find in (dare I say it) Zara, the latest Dior couture collection is definitely one to take note of for evening dressing inspiration.


- GIAMBATTISTA VALLI -
Let us address the first thing I noticed in Valli's couture collection; the headwear. Could it be that mega fashion photographer Mario Testino has inspired the Italian designer with his insta-famous #towelseries? Testino inspires me with every photo he takes so I definitely don't see why not (see proof here). Moving onto the clothes; my first impression whilst skimming through the images upon their release this morning was the slight Chanel vibe I got from a few of the looks. I'm referring of course to the Chanel's A/W Ready-To-Wear gowns that found even more fame on the frame of Brit beauty Keira Knightley back in March. The third image in particular struck up this resemblance, and the general focus on the waist this season is a definite continuation of their bow skirts (see the third to last look here) and waist-cinching looks of last season's couture collection. The rest of the collection saw the usual staples of Valli clothing; beautiful floral embellishment, chicer-than-Grace-Kelly full skirts and light, billowing fabrics straight out of a fairy tale. My personal favourites are the slightly Valentino-esque green dress and the ever-so-Valli purple gown, both on the third row. Note finally the nod to one of the biggest trends set in February's A/W Fashion Week; the layering of different fabrics all of a similar colour palette, such as the grey ensemble in row three.


(All images have been taken from and belong to www.Vogue.co.uk)

What has been your favourite show from Haute Couture Week so far? Stay tuned for the likes of Chanel, Ulyana Sergeenko and Giorgio Armani Prive in the next day or two!

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