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Tuesday, 28 April 2015

NYFW: BCBG Max Azria, Alice + Olivia, Tory Burch, See by Chloe, Badgley Mischka | Autumn/Winter 2015-16: Ready-To-Wear

- BCBG Max Azria -
Quite possibly my favourite collection of New York Fashion Week, BCBG Max Azria charmed me with the same layered, bohemian seventies trend that is sweeping Autumn/Winter 2015-16, but seemed far more chic than many others. Chic nudes immersed with rich tans, cobalt blues and deep burgandies, these shades scream winter without venturing into the more conventional and predictable purple/emerald territory. The over-the-knee boots give an updated Midnight Cowboy vibe, whilst the turtlenecks that took the fashion world last year will be keeping us warm once again this coming season. My favourite element of this collection is undoubtedly the collarless coats, many with embellished and quilted fabric; swoon. Plus, Azria cast one of the ultimate models of the moment Taylor Hill, who frankly could make me buy anything.


- Alice + Olivia -
Jacquard, metallic-finished fabrics with Balmain-inspired pieces such as the diamond skirt in the second look or the beaded shorts in the first, Alice + Olivia presented a glamorous and bold collection, full of attitude. The sleek centre-parted chignons and burgundy lips invited a European element to the looks, whilst the clothes themselves seemed to journey through the New York of the past 100 years; elegant early 21st Century feathers, preppy knee highs and skirts that scream 90's New England, and the more immediately recognisable street style edge that embodies the word of the teenies - sassiness. A depart from their more ethereal woodland collections of the last few seasons, Alice + Olivia have brought themselves right up to 2015, dressing a confident woman who ought not to be crossed.


- Tory Burch -
At last, a winter where we can actually dress appropriately for the weather. Elongated lines took hold of Tory Burch, with long cardigans, long sleeves and even longer dresses. Largely sporting different shades of blue just like the season before it, Burch's collection maintains the same 70's feel, particularly in the silhouettes and long loose pendant necklaces. My favourite piece has to be the blue sequin blazer in the left image of the second row, similar to the Dolce & Gabbana jacket worn by Rachel Bilson several years ago that I've pined after ever since! I'm keeping my fingers crossed for a high street dupe come September.


- See by Chloe -
Offering the perfect combination of easy bohemian chic and Ralph Lauren-style preppiness, See by Chloe created the same youthful, breezy aesthetic that the brand has evoked for over a decade. Delicate skirts contrasted with masculine tailored jackets and trousers, the collection retained it's usual effortless serenity with loose tousled waves and barely-there makeup, creating a synergy across each look, no matter how individually different. See by Chloe also injected seasonal trends such as gothic florals more commonly seen in Dolce & Gabbana or Valentino collections, and the laser cut trend that has taken Spring/Summer 2015 by storm even down to the high street already. For an eclectic mix of several fresh and relaxed styles, I know who I'll be looking to when the heat abates.


- Badgley Mischka -
Despite the 1970's trend that has swept almost every catwalk shown throughout NYFW, Badgley Mischka went against the grain and chose a beauty look from the decade before. Bouffants and beehives were donned by the models, paired with exaggerated black liner on the top lids and wings, with the sixties vibe infiltrating the outerwear in the form of oversized collared pea coats such as in the first look of the second row. The gowns themselves took several different shapes, but found common ground in long skirts and cinched waists. Etheral greys and operatic blues and blacks, the dresses shimmered with detail and celebrated the womanly figure, even taking a little Italian inspiration from Valentino in the third image shown.


(All images have been taken from and belong to www.Vogue.co.uk)

I hope you've enjoyed my roundup of my favourite shows of New York Fashion Week's Autumn/Winter 2015-16 collections. Stay tuned for a report of London's shows coming very soon, and in the meantime I'd love to know; what was your favourite collection of NYFW?

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Sunday, 1 February 2015

Elie Saab | Spring/Summer 2015: Couture

Glamorous, extravagant and serene, Elie Saab's Spring/Summer 2015 couture collection was one more on a long list of heavenly creations to make the most tomboyish of women swoon. A range of influences seemed to inspire the clothes, from exaggerated Hollywood glamour, to nature-inspired gowns and set, as well as the dramatic black dresses that reminded me of Travis Banton's costuming in Max Ophüls' Letter from an Unknown Woman, Saab's gowns offered something for everyone, layered in as much 20th Century cultural reference as they were sequin and lace.


The show began with a stunning pale gold gown with wide sleeves and beautiful, almost translucent mesh. This first dress immediately took me back to the gold low-cut gown worn by Izabel Goulart at Marchesa's most recent Ready-To-Wear show, though there is a difference between Marchesa's bohemian vibe and Saab's look towards Hollywood lingerie and opulence. The collection proceeded as all Elie Saab shows faultlessly do; through dresses of lace, beading, sheer panels and embellishment galore, but with the added drama of endless feathers, particularly on the muted grey-blue gown on the second row. These feathered looks created an even stronger sense of early Classical Hollywood, and reminded me instantly of Greta Garbo's costuming in Grand Hotel. One of my favourite gowns of the collection was the black V-necked dress with the full skirt on the penultimate row, worn by one of my favourite models of the moment Taylor Hill; the side-swept hair and decadent feathered shrug screamed glamour, whilst the attention to detail on the skirt's beading was as immaculate and hypnotising as ever. 


The final looks, bursting with butterflies, entered a more idyllic and tranquil territory, which felt like quite a sudden move away from the operatic gowns shown immediately before. But if anything, this just shows Elie Saab's incredible versatility and ability to create a synergy between the most unlikely of looks. His staple formula of boat necks, beading and a cinched waist is more effective than ever in this couture collection, and will see me through my dress-based daydreams for many more seasons to come.


(All images have been taken from and belong to www.Vogue.co.uk)

To read more of my show reports on Elie Saab, just click here! But first I want to know, what was your favourite look of his latest couture collection? 

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