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Sunday, 26 October 2014

Chanel No. 5: 'The One That I Want'

For me, no Sunday morning could be better spent than immersing myself in the iconic and fantastical worlds of Coco Chanel and Baz Luhrmann. My favourite designer and my favourite director's universes have collided once more to create what I think could be the most visually stunning short ever.


And yet, it isn't just in the visuals that Luhhrman has excelled. For starters, they're representing a fragrance, and though that can't yet be accessed through film, the world curated by Luhrmann and his team exudes an atmosphere synonymous with Chanel No. 5. Baz Luhrmann has for a long time been my director of choice, inspiring me to study film for the culmination of elements necessary to produce such art; stuyding his take on The Great Gatsby last year was a personal academic highlight. But behind every film are a thousand different people and techniques needed to create the final cut, and so it is with all of my adoration for the House of Chanel and the artwork of Baz Luhrmann that I urge you to watch the Making Of series behind 'The One That I Want'. To be let into the exclusivity of Chanel and the working mind of one of today's great filmmakers is truly a privilege, and I for one can say that I'll have each of these shorts on repeat for a long time.

'The One That I Want'


One of the things I most admire about Karl Lagerfeld is his amalgamation of fashion and filmmaking, allowing mere mortals like ourselves a peek into what goes on behind those legendary double C'd doors on la rue Cambon. From the beautiful biographic story of Coco in 'The Return' to the House's various educational stories about the woman, the history and of course, the number, Chanel are one of the few brands in the digital age bonding two of the most artistic mediums together in the way that they do. I thought I adored 'The One That I Want' before seeing the videos behind the film, and now I can say I am utterly in love. Follow the story behind the new interpretation of the classic No. 5 here.

For more Chanel, you can read my thoughts on the political impressions of Lagerfeld's 'The Little Black Jacket' exhibition, as well as my reports on their Dubai, Dallas and Autumn/Winter 2015 Haute Couture collections.

What do you think of 'The One That I Want'?

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Monday, 13 October 2014

LFW #2: Marchesa, Antonio Berardi, Michael van der Ham, Issa | Spring/Summer 2015: Ready-To-Wear

- Marchesa -
Opening the show was Georgia May Jagger, a vision in ethereal folk chic. That slight woodland vibe we noticed in Teatum Jones' collection? It has come home to roost in Marchesa. Taking on a very Valentino vibe in its deep colours and stunning embellishments, Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig have created what I think could be my favourite collection this season so far. Rich shades and the most feminine of fabrics, the enchanted forest comes to life in these gowns, my personal favourites being the first and penultimate looks, as well as the golden gown donned by the equally stunning Izabel Goulart.



- Antonio Berardi -
The multi-textured layering of our current season is set to carry on next Spring, with various fabrics and colours worn all at once. Blacks and navies once again making a heavy appearance, whilst blushing pale pinks and burnt oranges and reds liven up a largely dark collection. Loosely ruffled chiffons and more structured yet still very freeing looks such as the black dresses in the third row present a feminine but very determined woman, embodying both order and blithe effeminate nonchalance.


- Michael van der Ham -
Having spotted one of van der Ham's dresses on Keira Knightley last month, I was very keen to see what he was offering for S/S '15. Another blue collection, featuring an extreme amount of mixed fabrics, some of the looks here offer a reference to Chanel in their tweed materials and waist-cinching silhouettes. High boat-necked dresses with much more emphasis on the legs than chest, the silky and often metallic fabrics are striking against matte woollen pieces, producing the ultimate juxtaposition of materials and thus dressing for every woman.


- Issa -
One of several shows featuring wide bell skirts which remind me of Dior's last season couture (those 18th Century vibes are creeping into our daily wear now too), whilst here in the 21st Century the reign of the daisy continues. Seen absolutely everywhere from Prada to New Look over the course of the last 18 months, Issa is carrying on this beloved floral trend, as well as incorporating swirling lines of pattern horizontally across garments. A strict colour scheme and an even more structured uniform of open-toed mules makes Issa one to watch, learn from and imitate next Spring.


(All images have been taken from and belong to www.Vogue.co.uk)

That is it for London Fashion Week! You can catch up on all of my show reports so far from this season by clicking here. I'll be back in the next few days with an Autumn Home Haul; be sure to follow Tangible Treasures on Bloglovin' to be the first to see it! 

Which was your favourite collection from LFW?

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Monday, 6 October 2014

LFW #1: Jena. Theo, Bora Asku, Teatum Jones, Felder Felder, Julien Macdonald, Holly Fulton | Spring/Summer 2015: Ready-To-Wear

- Jena. Theo -
My first thought upon seeing this collection is that is going to be one for Zara to imitate for sure. Easy shapes, bold jungle prints and no-fuss fabrics, this could be a collection to shape the coming season, purely for how wearable and familiar it is; many of the prints shown seem reminiscent of the summer trends we just kissed goodbye to. Each silhouette shows the capacity to travel from the beach to the evening, and there is a definite influence from Giambattista Valli in some of these looks; the oversized bows at the waist look especially S/S '14 Couture. Shoe note: Birkenstocks aren't going anywhere.



- Bora Asku -
A sprinkle of Little House on the Prairie here, a dash of Neverland-esque ragged fabrics and Peter Pan collars, a few Victorian high necked silhouettes, and you have created Bora Asku's modern day girlish chic. Detailing to make Olivier Rousteing proud (see image two), The china blue inspired patterns that we saw in Tadashi Shoji's collection can be found in this show too, confirming not only the print but the colour of next spring too. You won't find any normcore here, and I couldn't be more thrilled!


- Teatum Jones -
Opening the show with sleek sleeveless jackets a la Olivia Palermo, Jones' show struck the perfect balance between innovation and basics, offering block coloured looks with plenty of detail to liven up the pieces. The oversized skirts of Dior couture are making a more casual appearance here, reiterating the 18th Century influence we're seeing in trends right now. The much loved bomber jacket is getting an update through the use of mixed fabrics, whilst the later looks in the collection featuring beige and brown tones remind me of Mulberry's woodland inspired work a few years ago now, primarily in the sixth image. Yet another show prioritising blue, we can also find a fabric of the season here; crochet is back. The first and fourth looks make that much clear, and keep an eye from now on how often it's appeared in S/S '15 already. It may not be all that wearable, but be certain that you'll find it everywhere nonetheless.


- Felder Felder -
With the opening look of this show, space cowboy comes to mind. Metallics, Western boots and buttoned up shirts make up the basics of Felder Felder's spring collection, as well as the pale green palette we saw in Nonoo's show. Festival chic is embodied in the fourth and twelth looks, whilst a more demure option is offered in the fifth. A dash of fringing confirms our Wild West inspiration for next year, whilst the crochet we just spotted in Teatum Jones makes another appearance. Prepare for a wash of fringing metallics at Coachella next year; this is the collection to keep a keen eye on!


- Julien Macdonald -
The usual formula from Julien Macdonald, but as with Oscar de la Renta, the expected doesn't have to be dull. In fact, it is usually beautiful, where high fashion is concerned at least. Bodycon dresses, embellished gowns and mesh panels at the decolletage, these dresses are absolutely ones you will recognise but still adore. Stunning metallics in the later looks and extreme white outs nearer the beginning, the Julien Macdonald show was as usual one of my favourites this season. Chic little gladiator heels and lustrous centre partings, there is one other thing to mention about this show that you'll have already guessed; blue.


- Holly Fulton -
Does this colour scheme look familiar? Did you not read NYFW #1? Go take a look at the ZAC Zac Posen show and tell me that the palette isn't almost identical. Not that I'm complaining; soft lilacy greys, muted turquoises and buttery yellows are absolutely up my street. Much more geometric than Posen's show though, Holly Fulton has taken Valentino inspired shapes and incorporated incredibly modern patterns; pixelated prints and angled detailing (see the penultimate look), crop tops are staying current and it appears that Fulton has gone for a shoe that combines the last year's two biggest success stories; I give you the Barely There Birkenstock.


(All images have been taken from and belong to www.Vogue.co.uk)

Stay tuned for Part 2 of London Fashion Week coming very soon! And don't forget to let me know in the comments below...

Do you have a favourite look from these six shows?

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