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Sunday, 1 February 2015

Elie Saab | Spring/Summer 2015: Couture

Glamorous, extravagant and serene, Elie Saab's Spring/Summer 2015 couture collection was one more on a long list of heavenly creations to make the most tomboyish of women swoon. A range of influences seemed to inspire the clothes, from exaggerated Hollywood glamour, to nature-inspired gowns and set, as well as the dramatic black dresses that reminded me of Travis Banton's costuming in Max Ophüls' Letter from an Unknown Woman, Saab's gowns offered something for everyone, layered in as much 20th Century cultural reference as they were sequin and lace.


The show began with a stunning pale gold gown with wide sleeves and beautiful, almost translucent mesh. This first dress immediately took me back to the gold low-cut gown worn by Izabel Goulart at Marchesa's most recent Ready-To-Wear show, though there is a difference between Marchesa's bohemian vibe and Saab's look towards Hollywood lingerie and opulence. The collection proceeded as all Elie Saab shows faultlessly do; through dresses of lace, beading, sheer panels and embellishment galore, but with the added drama of endless feathers, particularly on the muted grey-blue gown on the second row. These feathered looks created an even stronger sense of early Classical Hollywood, and reminded me instantly of Greta Garbo's costuming in Grand Hotel. One of my favourite gowns of the collection was the black V-necked dress with the full skirt on the penultimate row, worn by one of my favourite models of the moment Taylor Hill; the side-swept hair and decadent feathered shrug screamed glamour, whilst the attention to detail on the skirt's beading was as immaculate and hypnotising as ever. 


The final looks, bursting with butterflies, entered a more idyllic and tranquil territory, which felt like quite a sudden move away from the operatic gowns shown immediately before. But if anything, this just shows Elie Saab's incredible versatility and ability to create a synergy between the most unlikely of looks. His staple formula of boat necks, beading and a cinched waist is more effective than ever in this couture collection, and will see me through my dress-based daydreams for many more seasons to come.


(All images have been taken from and belong to www.Vogue.co.uk)

To read more of my show reports on Elie Saab, just click here! But first I want to know, what was your favourite look of his latest couture collection? 

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Sunday, 9 November 2014

PFW: Elie Saab, Balenciaga, Chanel, Valentin Yudashkin | Spring/Summer 2015: Ready-To-Wear

- Elie Saab -
The first thing I noticed about one of my favourite designers' latest collections is how imitable it is bound to be. Both Zara and Topshop featured the sportswear inspired striped bands shown (I actually featured a dress that I bought in a post back in April that proves this!), whilst the blues and oranges of the first few looks are definitely going to be landing in stores come Spring. The more artisinal elements of the traditional Elie Saab dresses towards the end of the collection are far more dream-like and inaccessible, but if I'm honest that is just one of the reasons I adore them so much. Another collection that keeps blue at its centre, we certainly know which colour to invest in come March!



- Balenciaga -
Balenciaga isn't a House that I often cover during Fashion Week, more because it doesn't so much sit with my personal style rather than because I dislike anything that they do. As with Alexander Wang's own brand, the clothes are often a little more grungy or sporty than I would personally go for, but I found myself enticed by their S/S 2015 collection. Whether it's something to do with the blushing pinks and lilacs, the cropped trousers or Burberry-like midi-skirts, the looks presented this time around had an inch more femininity to them than previous collections, though kept relatively androgynous with the poker straight centre partings and mask style sunglasses. The wide mesh overlays and ankle sweeping coats make for an undoubtedly big city vibe that has got me converted to the Balenciaga way.


- Chanel -
A fashion boulevard that started with a rainbow of colour and ended in classic Coco chic, Lagerfeld has outdone himself with this collection. The combination of different fabrics, colours and prints presents a more modern and outlandish Chanel, whilst the later looks featuring navy, white and layers of pearls echo the original creator herself. Whether it's street style, the rise of the blogger or the infinite possibilites of feminism in the 21st Century, Lagerfeld's collection was as much a statement on equality and the voice of women as it was a presentation of next season's trends. Karl has fused the past, present and future; looking to Coco for a framework, and the woman of today for that striking step forward. For me, this could be their best collection in years.


- Valentin Yudashkin -
The first thing that drew me to this collection was actually the runway. It reminded me instantly of the beautiful archway I saw at Burberry's presentation when I attended a Fragrance Conference a few months ago, as well as the wall of flowers at the Kardashian-West wedding. Whether these references were intentional or not is another question, but it certainly made a stunning backdrop for Yudashkin's beautiful clothes. The colour scheme here is heavenly; largely white with pastel pinks and blues, whilst the flower adorned dresses at the end of the show have my name written all over them. One thing that I really did appreciate from Valentin Yudashkin is the small injection of modernity into an otherwise fairly classic collection; the high shine fabrics and almost entirely sheer top half of one of the final dresses presents a more liberated and futuristic elegance. Without doubt this is one of the most beautiful collections shown this season, and the perfect one to end S/S '15 on!


(All images have been taken from and belong to www.Vogue.co.uk)

I hope you've all enjoyed my coverage of this season, and to catch up on every show I've reported on, just click here! As always I've loved going through each show and seeing the magic that each designer has conjured; the relentless creativity showcased during Fashion Week never ceases to amaze me. As far as show reports go, I'll be back in February, but for now, it's time to get festive! 

What was your favourite show from Paris Fashion Week? Did you have a favourite collection from the whole S/S '15 season? Let me know in the comments below!

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